Antietam - Detroit, MI, United States. Enrtecote de Boeuf 
<br>duck far potato, pepper & onion jam, porcini
Photo: Yelp, Antietam's Enrtecote de Boeuf 



Veteran Detroiters always knew their city was a meat-and-potatoes town. To find more-eclectic cuisine meant doing what most people downtown did after work: Leave.

No more. Detroit is in the midst of a culinary transformation. Rock-bottom housing stock and an emerging generation of young restaurateurs and chefs settling in to experiment have brought new restaurants, breweries, tasting rooms, cocktail bars, pop-up events and quirky lunch spots promising nutritious food — in neighborhoods where the only option to eat had previously been fast food. Keeping up with launches is now a sport in this rebounding city, which over the past decade survived a government bailout of two of its three major car companies, the largest municipal bankruptcy in U.S. history and the shuttling of a recent mayor, Kwame Kilpatrick, to federal prison.

Many of the new restaurants feature chefs lured away from other cities to jump-start new ventures. They include Brion Wong and Jestin James Feggan, recruited from New York to create the modern French cuisine at Antietam, and John Vermiglio and Josef Giacomino, Detroit natives who created flagships in Chicago before returning home this past fall to start work on Grey Ghost Detroit in the Midtown neighborhood; it will open in the spring.

They join a rapidly growing crop of restaurants that opened in the past two years, including Selden Standard, featuring small plates and craft cocktails in Midtown; Gold Cash Gold, old-school Southern cuisine in a refurbished Corktown pawnshop; Parks and Rec Diner, a retro breakfast stop downton; Wright & Company, a posh second-floor dining experience downtown; and Standby, a late-night spot in the Belt Alley art district featuring a menu of traditional bar foods with a twist, such as duck-fat-fried almonds, and horchata and shrimp rice cakes topped with cilantro and avocado. They all are taking part in reshaping Detroit’s reputation as a culinary destination, branching out beyond its tradition of reliable ethnic and steakhouse fare.

Filling those booths and tables are not just people flocking into the city on nights and weekends but also employees of such companies as Nike, Microsoft, Google, Twitter, Amazon, Lear, Quicken Loans and other mega-nationals that are revitalizing the downtown business core. By filling previously vacant high-rise residential buildings, they are creating a lively after-hours scene, both in the immediate area and in inner-circle neighborhoods such as Corktown, Midtown, Capital Park and the Eastern Market.

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